BY SCOTT MICHAEL LONG

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          Personal, as well as internet friends, constantly ask, "Is it safe to drive to Mexico?"

          My response is, "Safer than what?"

          If you've driven in Los Angeles recently and been squeezed between two eighteen wheelers hurtling down the freeway in excess of 85 miles an hour while you're trying to edge toward the exit, you know that isn't safe.

          Navigating I-10 through Houston during the rush hour redefines rush hour grid lock.

          Negotiating the interstate corridor between Washington, D. C. and New York City is not an adventure for the faint of heart.

          Tokyo is better suited for surviving kamikaze pilots than drivers of automobiles.

          Paris? Well, forget that. Nobody except the Parisians, who are born with combative and contentious genes, would dare to drive in that traffic.

          Compared to those situations driving in Mexico is a piece of la tarta. It can be fun and the scenery between the Texas and Arizona border towns and Ajijic, just south of Guadalajara, is beautiful and ever changing.

          Best routes:

          One of my favorite routes is Mexico Highway 15 from Nogales to Guadalajara. Except for a small stretch north of Tepic it is all four lane toll roads and you will drive through some of the most beautiful, lush, well tended farm land in the world.

          It is a two day drive and consider either Los Mochis or Cullacan as your stop over point. I was particularly impressed with the El Dorado Hotel and Motel in Los Mochis.

          If your crossing point is Laredo take Mexican Highway 85 and then 85D, which is the modern toll road, to Monterrey and then connect with Highway 54 to Guadalajara.

          Leaving from McAllen you will want Mexican Highway 40 and then 40D. the toll road, to Monterrey and then connect with Highway 54 to Guadalajara.

          Make certain you take the bypass around Monterrey, otherwise you will find yourself hurtling through and around downtown Monterrey and perhaps think you have taken the wrong turn and ended up in Los Angeles.

          If you get a late start, because of obtaining your vehicle sticker, tourist visa, etc. I suggest Saltillo as the place to spend your first night. There is a splendid Holiday Inn Express on the edge of the city as you are coming from Monterrey.

          However, if your papers are in order and there is no delay in getting your vehicle sticker, I recommend Zacatecas as your first night stop over. There is also a Holiday Inn there and it is fairly convenient to Highway 54.

          Both Saltillo and Zacatecas have other first rate accommodations.

          When you began your second day on Highway 54 plan to leave early. There is a spectacular mountain range north of Guadalajara and while it is pretty in the daylight, you don't wish to be on this two lane road after dark.

          As a rule it isn't wise to drive on most Mexican highways after dark. Not because of the danger from los bandidos, about which the U. S. media is so fond of exaggerating, but because the highways are generally not lighted and in addition to traffic, you will be sharing the road with horses, cows, donkeys and people.

          Another route south is Brownsville via Ciudad Victoria, San Luis Potosi, Largos de Moreno to Guadalajara/Ajijic. While this route has some spectacular scenery when you drive through the Sierra Madre Oriental mountains it isn't my favorite.

          There are long stretches without much traffic, not a great place to get stranded, and overnight accommodations, except for Ciudad Victoria and San Luis Potosi, which are large cities, are pretty slim.

          All three of these routes are two day drives.

          Tips to make your journey safe and pleasant.

          Hotels and motels safety:

          Always, always, always select a hotel or motel that has a secured parking area. Vehicle thefts are as common here as in the U. S. and Canada.

          Getting lost:

          I used to get lost quite often. Most of the time it was my fault because of nervousness and inexperience. However, sometimes I got lost because the route markers were not particularly clear. (The same is true when you are driving in New York City)

          The danger areas are the large cities, i. e. Monterrey, Ciudad Victoria, San Luis Potosi and Guadalajara.

          There are three solutions.

          #1. When approaching these cities look at the map carefully and drive slowly. "Honey, you just missed the turn off" has ruined more marriages and relationships than infidelity and adultery.

          #2. Pull over, take out your map, find a sympathetic looking bystander and point and gesture, if your Spanish is muy pequeño, toward your destination. By nature the Mexican people are kind and gentle and will try their best to help you on your way.

          #3. When all else fails stop and flag down a taxi. Point where you are going, give the driver 20 pesos and follow him. This always works.

          Maps:

          If you buy your Mexican vehicle insurance from either AAA or Sanborn's ask them to clearly mark the route for you, including toll roads. However, beware the AAA maps which are often out of date when it comes to Mexico, especially the toll roads.

          The best map I have found is the Por Las Carreteras De Mexico published by Guiaroji. The Rand McNally map of Mexico is also pretty good.

          Insurance:

          Your U. S. or Canadian car insurance isn't valid in Mexico and you will need to buy Mexican insurance which is available on a daily rate from AAA in Laredo and Sanborn's in McAllen. I don't have specific information about insurance agencies in either Nogales or Brownsville.

          Both AAA and Sanborn's will fill out the papers you will need to get a vehicle sticker to bring your car into Mexico as well as for your tourist visa. You will need both your registration and a copy of the title to your vehicle. In addition, when you cross the border you will need a valid credit card to pay the vehicle sticker fee which is about $15.00.

          While the Mexican border authorities will sometimes accept a valid U.S. drivers license, for purposes of obtains a tourist visa, I always feel more comfortable having a passport.

          If you are planning on staying for more than a vacation you will need a FM-3 visa. Get the details and requirements from the Mexican Consulate serving your area.

          I would suggest spending one day getting your papers in order so that you can get an early start the next day.

          There are stretches of wonderful, modern toll roads and I recommend you take them when possible. They work just like U. S. toll roads, except there is very little traffic. The tolls, which are paid in pesos, are clearly posted.

          Crossing the border and the open road:

          A word of caution. Do not cross the border on a major U. S. or Mexican holiday. The crowds will be large, the lines long and the staff to process your papers noticeably short.

          Immediately after crossing the border you will find yourself in the first Mexican Border Inspection Station. This is where you get your vehicle sticker and tourist visa if you haven't been wise enough to take care of these details the day before.

          Seventeen miles after you cross the border you will be required to stop at another inspection station. There they have the green light/red light system and being checked is the luck of the draw.

          However, if you are driving a foreign plated vehicle and your back seat is piled high with computers and televisions be prepared to be inspected and possibly pay a tax.

          The Mexican Consulate in your area will tell you that a benefit of having a FM-3 Visa is the ability to bring personal household goods, computers, televisions, etc., into the country without paying duty. On occasion the Mexican Customs officials at the border and the seventeen mile check point may have a vastly different interpretation of what constitutes personal household goods.

          If you are moving rather than visiting, I recommend arriving at the border in time to consult with a U. S. bonded customs broker.

          Periodically you will encounter check points manned by either the Federal Police or the Mexican Army. Don't let this upset you. Nothing bad is going to happen unless you are foolish enough to be carrying drugs or weapons. The U. S. government, looking for drugs and illegal aliens, has similar check points on their side of the border.

          Chances are your U. S. or Canadian plated vehicle will be waved through. If not, have your tourist visa, FM-E and passport ready. The Federal police are looking for drugs and the army for weapons.

          If you have a cooler chest be polite and offer them a soft drink. Their pay is low, they will have been in the hot sun all day and it is doubtful they can afford a supply of soft drinks.

          If you are driving through states that are major agricultural areas you may be stopped at army road blocks. They are searching for plants, fruit and other agricultural products that could be disease invested.

          Courtesy:

          As a rule most Mexican drivers are polite and a smile, nod or friendly wave will ease your way through most construction congestion, clogged intersections and traffic circles.

          However, some drivers, usually male and no doubt experiencing a sudden bust of machismo, have an alarming tendency to pass while going up a steel hill that has a blind curve at the top.

          No matter how high you think your testosterone is don't try and emulate this feat of foolish daring. You will notice that most roadside shrines dedicated to recently departed accident victims are at the tops of steep hills with blind curves at the top.

          Vehicle Warranty:

          Check the no-so-fine print. Chances are your warranty is not valid in Mexico.

          Stuff For Your Vehicle:

          In addition to having your vehicle completely serviced, tuck spare hoses, belts, etc. into the trunk.

          Replacement parts are not always available, especially in small villages, and the Green Angels who patrol the major roads to assist stranded motorists may not have the part you need either.

          Spring For A Car Phone:

          If you break down on the road you can call for help.

          The Green Angels, a emergency patrol service on the major highways, have an emergency number and if your insurance is with Sanborns they have a emergency roadside assistance number.

          When you buy your Mexican vehicle insurance ask for the most recent number for the Green Angels.

          Mexican cell phone service:

          Your choice, at the moment, is limited to IUSACELL and TelMex.

          Both have plans for visitors who will only be in the country for a short time. I am making the assumption both companies will have offices on the Mexican side of the Arizona and Texas border towns.

          TRAVEL ESSENTIALS:

          A supply of snacks, canned sausages, tuna, baked beans, hard rolls, crackers, soft drinks, bottled water, etc. are a good idea when driving in Mexico. Unless you are an experienced traveller a simple, picnic lunch in your car is recommended. Ice from purified water is readily available.

          An electric hot water pot and coffee singles or tea bags are essentials, even in five star hotels, if there is to be hot coffee at your convenience and not at the pleasure of the often slow to arise room service staff. Don't forget a small supply of styrofoam cups, sugar and cream packets.

          Even though Jack Daniels, as well as imported scotches, are available in some liquor stores and the larger hotels, many of the smaller hotels and restaurants will not have them in stock.

          If your cocktail time tastes run to the "exotic" you might wish bring a supply with you. However, Margaritas, the drink that made Mexico famous, are always available and always very good.

          It has been my experience that the large deluxe Hoffritz manicure set can be helpful in every task from cutting fishing line to performing minor emergency medical procedures while driving with one hand.

          Baby wipes and toilet tissue are essential to successful travel hygiene.

          Unleaded gas, Magna Sin, is available through the country.

          Pets:

          It's a good idea to have your veterinarian obtain a United States (or the Canadian equivalent) Interstate and International Certificate of Health Examination for Small Animals. You don't want Fido, Tom or Tweety Bird being declared an illegal pet alien at the border.

          Medical Insurance:

          No one wants to become ill or be in an accident while they are away from home. However, these things do happen.

          It could very well be your present U. S. health insurance is valid in Mexico. The Sanatorio Sharp Americas Hospital in Guadalajara advertises "You don't have to be in the states for your health insurance to be valid."

          Check with your stateside insurance company.

          If there is a question about your coverage ask your travel or insurance agent about out of country short term health and accident insurance.

          Banks and Money:

          Money, at least large sums of it, aren't easy to get in Mexico.

          An ATM Machine will disperse approximately $200.00 (1500 pesos) per credit card, per day. However not all ATM Machines accept all credit cards and some have a tendency not to be in service week-ends, holidays, etc.

          If you have a supply of U. S. or Canadian currency or travellers checks it's easy to convert any amount at a bank or money changing office. Remember to have your passport as well as your FM-3 Visa for identification, especially for travellers checks.

          GUIDE   BOOKS:

          Guide books tend to have divergent points of view and can be confusing unless you separate the wheat from the chaff and zero in on specific information. Consequently, read them with care and realize that information, like people and the weather, changes constantly.

          In my opinion the best guide book is Mexico Living and Travel. Written by Jean and John Bryan this is an excellent book if you are seriously thinking of living here full or part-time. You can order this book from John Bryant, President MRTA, A. P. 1-1964, Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico. The price is $29.95 plus $3.00 for shipping.

          Fielding Mexico 95 Guide. Written by Lynn and Lawrence Foster, who have traveled extensively in Mexico and lived there, the 701 pages are packed with everything from telephone and fax numbers to comments on the climate and local customs.

          Birmbaum's 94 Mexico. This book will be particularly helpful if you are planning to drive to Mexico. The detailed section on driving routes from United States border crossings to major destinations feels like having a good experienced friend in the passenger seat.

          Fodor's 95 Mexico. While in my opinion not as comprehensive as the Fielding Guide, it does have reliable information on restaurants, hotels, and tourist sites as well as tips about crossing the border, customs requirements, etc.

          AAA Mexico TravelGuide. A reliable but not particularly exciting presentation of information. As always their recommendations for hotels, motels, resorts and restaurants are comprehensive and informative. This guide also has helpful street maps in addition to

          As you can see the books I refer to are either 1995 or 1994 editions. Check and see if more recent editions are available.

          "Is it safe to drive to Mexico?"

          Of course it is.

          Just use a little common sense and you will have a wonderful adventure on the open road south of the border down Mexico way. Ole!


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